Monday, May 16, 2011

Oilman: Curitiba's Unlikely Superhero

Oilman: Curitiba's Unlikely Superhero

by Tyson Brooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/

What do you get when you take a 100ml of oil, a brightly coloured
speedo, a bicycle and a biology teacher?

The super hero of Curitiba!!!!

Year round Nelson Robelo walks and rides his bicycle through the parks
and streets of Curitiba wearing nothing but a Speedo and a lot of oil.
No one knows how he became Oilman or why he does it. Some suggests he
is a little strange in the head while others suggest he is testing a
new magic oil that makes him impervious to hot or cold temperatures.
He himself admits he is comfortable in temperatures down to 7 degrees
in his oil and speedo while he has braved zero on one cold night on
his way home from a day out walking.

Robelo had been christened 419 names before the people of Curitiba
decided to uniformly call him Oilman. Names such as Oil maniac,
Mayonnaise Man, and Greasy Man just didn't make the cut. Regardless he
is now famous. Google him and you can find tv interviews and even a
Wikipedia entry (in Portugese) documenting Curitiba's superhero. Ask a
local who the most famous Curitibano is and they will eagerly tell you
about Oilman. Ask who else it famous from Curitiba and they will
scratch their heads and look puzzled. Were once people used to yell at
him to put his clothes on now people demand he take his clothes off.
Such is the life of a Curitibano celebrity.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Fwd: Mixed Martial Arts - The Story of a Meek Student

In class Leonardo is meek, a little shy and nice. It came as a
surprise when he invited me to watch him fight.  On stage he is a
massive animal, a ball of fury who looks like he could kill. His fight
lasts for less then a minute. The referee signals the fight is on and
he attacks. My student unleashes a series of punches and kicks as his
opponent grabs him and forces him to the ground. Leonardo clings on,
his arms trying to pull his adversary's neck off while his legs wrap
around him like two pythons squeezing him to death. His opponent never
had a chance.

Over three hundred people had come to watch. A DJ spun ACDC between
fights. Of the dozens of fighters who entered the ring not all stayed
conscious. At first the fights were all Muy Thai. Spin kicks to the
head and brutal body blows. One fellow collapses unconscious. Others
danced and pranced around just missing each other blow after blow.
Others constantly lock up like lovers parted for too long. The larger
fighters wear themselves out after the first few minutes. Their
previously lethal looking blows turning to little baby jabs as the
effort takes it's toll. The crowd boos.

Curitiba is Brazil's Muy Thai capital. Many of these fighters will go
on to win national and international fights. Curitiban fighters are
well known for there strength and style. Even though this was a bottom
level competition it feels like a hard core video game. Blood and spit
flying everywhere. A fight is stopped when blood became a hazard. The
lucky Muy Thai competitors wear padded foot and leg gear, chest
protectors, boxing gloves and head gear. I am not sure how much
protection any of it offers. One poor guy gets kicked so hard in the
chest he falls unconscious on his face. Another fellow gets kicked out
of the ring. Unluckily for him his head makes it through the ropes and
contacts a table. Another unconscious fighter.

Muy Thai looks like childs play compared to Mixed Martial Arts. My
student as a Mixed Martial Arts fighter wears only head gear. His
hands are wrapped in rough tape leaving his fingers free to grapple on
the ground. No bowing before fights just fierce looks and a desire to
kill. Outside as we leave a fighter is weeping on the steps, he is
being consoled by his coach and team. It can't be easy to train hard
every day for months on end and lose in under a minute.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

The Bus in Paradise - Curitibano Transportation

Eighty-two-foot-long, three hundred passenger biarticulated buses ply
Curitiba on 72 km of dedicated bus roads. These orange behemoths that
look like giant three section accordions stop at specially built glass
tubes that act as bus stops. Bus fare is paid on entrance into the
tube and when the bus arrives ramps on the bus fold down for
passengers to board. The whole system is designed to be an above
ground subway. It is cheap, efficient and has cut city traffic to a
fraction of what most other cities face. An incredible eighty five
percent of city residents use the bus on a daily basis. Curitiba's
buses are the envy of the world and the inspiration for systems across
the American continents and even in India. But not everything is
perfect down here in paradise.

The average North American transit bus fits 57, it's impressive that a
bus twice the size fits 300. It is accomplished by having only 57
seats on the bus. The majority of the passengers stand. Only very late
as night when the bus is practically empty have I managed to get a
seat. Considering there is almost no traffic on the bus roads and the
buses are so efficient, standing is no big deal.

A bigger issue is the rush hour lineups. On most days I have witnessed
lines ups of up to 300 that reach literally around the block. Transit
riders wait patiently to get into a tube to board the bus. It is a
long wait when the buses arriving are usually full. With Curitiba's
population explosion the bus system now 30 years old is struggling to
keep up. With a recent change in management buses are no longer as
frequent or on time. To add to complaints bus fare increases two or
three times a year. Most Curitibanos were once proud of their system.
Now it is a common source of complaining.

Bus breakdowns are a constant nuisance. The road is often streaked
with oil and bus fires are not unheard of. Fires force working buses
onto the regular roads. It is not a safe or easy task for the drivers
of these monster vehicles. Another constant problem are vandals who
break the glass tubes and score the windows on the buses. In the outer
suburbs some of the glass tubes are just metal framed cylinders with
all the glass lying smashed on the ground.

Dedicated bus roadways spread out from the center like spokes in a
wheel. Each road is completely separated from traffic by medians many
of which are tree lined. In a city with no regard for pedestrians or
cyclists it makes for magnificent exploratory bike rides of the city.
Although it is illegal to ride the bus roads all cyclists do it. It
would be suicidal not to. Police turn a blind eye and often wave as
you pass. The bus roads are also popular running and skateboarding
track. Sunday in particular when bus traffic is light all types comes
out to use the bus roads. This morning eight guys on specially built
skeleton skate boards raced down one of the bigger hills face first in
their lycra and fancy helmets. They jockeyed for position as I moved
into the other lane to avoid them.

City zoning allows for tall buildings within flour blocks of the bus
ways. Skyscrapers seem to stretch for dozens of kilometers in
different directions creating an image of an endless center. It is a
magnificent and unique lay out to the usual urban sprawl. All courtesy
of a unique bus system that was dreamed up and implemented 30 years
ago. A system that costs 50 times less per kilometer then a subway
system. Times are changing. Curitibanos should be proud of their bus
system and the city it created.

Tyson Brooks

In Curitiba - (41) 9672-1058
Photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/tysonbrooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Moving Brazilian Style

Everything must go. Pack up the kitchen sink, the stove, the cabinets
and even the taps. Nothing except the roof and the floor come standard
in a Brazilian home.

The current place is small, it resembles a bunker more then the
basement suite it is. The two fellows I have been staying with have
been good enough to give me the only bedroom. Of course the ironing
board and closet are in the bedroom so it is a bit closer to being
Grand Central station then a private get away. With little room to dry
laundry, no hot water except for the shower which is lukewarm on a
good day the situation certainly isn't ideal.  I have had to boil a
pot of water everyday just to shave. It has been cheap and interesting
but a month is long enough.

Renting here is not easy. The paperwork is thick and the documents
required to rent a place archaic. Often landlords require six months
rent in advance as a damage payment. Most landlords refuse to rent to
anyone unless you or a guaranteer has a property in the state.

I found a place through word of mouth. One of the teachers at work
knew of a couple guys looking for a third for their three bedroom
condo downtown. For a tiny bit more as I was paying before I live in
an old decadent building.  The views are stunning and one of the
bathrooms sports a jacuzzi. Amazing for a country that sees bath tubs
as a luxury. The kitchen has granite counter tops and the living room
a good sound system and big tv. The concierge downstairs doesn't speak
a word of English  and he always calls the elevator but I prefer the
circular marble staircase for the five flights to my apartment. The
elevators look so old I don't completely trust them.
--
****************************************************
Tyson Brooks

In Curitiba - (41) 9672-1058
Photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/tysonbrooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/

--
****************************************************
Tyson Brooks

In Curitiba - (41) 9672-1058
Photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/tysonbrooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Brazilian BBQ

There was not a leaf of lettuce or stick of celery in sight. The only
thing related to plants was the polenta and beer that was brought
around at regular intervals. Soon after guests started arriving the
barbeque was lit. Built into the house the bbq was a chamber on the
outside wall. It resembled a tiny fireplace complete with chimney.
This barbeque was not an afterthought in this modern townhouse. In
fact the marble used matched the kitchen inside. Charcoal briquettes
were added and lit and a metal rack and a sausage spit were placed
suspended over the coals. Little dimples in the wall at different
heights allowed the meat to be raised or lowered according to the
chefs needs. The bbq recipe was simple; course salt is sprinkled on
the meat as it cooks. The meat and sausages are cut into small chunks
when they are done and brought around on a party tray with a dip that
resembled bread crumbs. It was so simple, I never touched a plate or
utensil of any kind. Yet hands down it was the most social and tasty
barbeque I have ever been to.

For the six hours I was there the meat didn´t stop flowing. As the
cook got drunker the succulent morsels of steak began to resemble over
salted beef jerky. At the point that the food bordered on mediocre
another chef was nominated and the good food continued. Amazingly my
share of the meat cost was about $3 Canadian. An amazing price in a
country which isn´t exactly cheap.

--
****************************************************
Tyson Brooks

In Curitiba - (41) 9672-1058
Photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/tysonbrooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/

Brazil?

This is not the Brazil I expected. There aren't black women dancing to
exotic drum beats on every corner, Samba music does not eminate from
every open window,  I am not at risk of getting mugged on a daily
basis and beggars don't harrass me. It is not even hot and sunny.
Instead I have found a city just exotic enough to be interesting; a
city that is safe and modern enough to be livable. Here most people
live in high rises and poverty confines itself to the occasional
person collecting recycling. Vancouver has far more beggars and
vagrant types on the street. The transportation system is modern and
three hundred person buses glide down bus only roads depositing and
collecting people from big glass tubes on the roadside. The city is
clean as factories were never allowed to sully the air and water. The
only thing that makes it feel like a developing country is the bins
beside the toilets to collect toilet paper. I still haven't perfected
the folding job necessary to hide the brown stripe on each piece I
throw in the bin.

Apparently this is the most boring city in Brazil. It also has the
highest quality of life and the lowest amount of poverty.

So far it has been a wonderful experience.

--
****************************************************
Tyson Brooks

Heading for Brazil
Photos - http://picasaweb.google.com/tysonbrooks
Blog - http://tysonwrites.blogspot.com/